Anticipation for 'Before Midnight' and why 'Before Sunrise' is my favorite movie (No Spoilers)

For me, the best part of traveling are the hints of possibility. You visit plenty of places and form so many bonds that you can't help but imagine new realities. "I could live here", "I've made lifelong friends", "I've found the one". While these thoughts seem certain for a time, they're often fleeting. Constantly replaced by new prospects.

I explained this epiphany to a literary running mate in Florence, "If every new experience is a dream. The one I never wake from must be my life". In the coming days I would score an extended stay in Italy through hostel mafia connects. My weeks during Carnevale were spent shepherding tourists and couriering furniture through the labyrinth of Venice. In reality most of my days were spent torturously waiting. It was in this period that I wrote poems, the end of my first month in my yearlong EuroTrip. The only time I was compelled to.

I feel this was because it was early in my trip and I was enamored by the potential that lay ahead of me. As the synchronicities piled up and the stories came and went, the wonder and investment diminished. The experiences remained great but as often in life it became about chasing that original high (or maybe just chasing the next one?)

Jesse (Ethan Hawke) with an offer Celine (Julie Delpy) can't refuse

Before Sunrise (1995)
Jesse: Alright, alright. Think of it like this: jump ahead, ten, twenty years, okay, and you're married. Only your marriage doesn't have that same energy that it used to have, y'know. You start to blame your husband. You start to think about all those guys you've met in your life and what might have happened if you'd picked up with one of them, right? Well, I'm one of those guys. That's me y'know, so think of this as time travel, from then, to now, to find out what you're missing out on...

Like most of my favorite things, I stumbled onto 'Before Sunrise'. It was the midday movie during a university off-day. I was compelled by this quote in the opening scene and I've been a big Linklater fan ever since. I told everyone about the movie and gave several VHS tapes as gifts. Several years later there were rumours of a sequel born from its cult following and affection for the characters. I watched the Premiere at the Dendy Quays with my then girlfriend and cousin.

The first movie will always be the most uplifting as it captures the promise of youth, each subsequent movie can only get darker as it mirrors the cynicism and weight that comes with age and experience. Whilst 'Before Sunrise' pondered a canvas of possibility, 'Before Sunset' contemplates a filled page. The oppression of history. I'm bracing myself for what 'Before Midnight' has in store. I'm lucky to have discovered the movie the way I did, the anticipation for the films mimics the distance Jesse and Celine have apart. In the intervening time (9yrs between each), viewers would have accumulated their own life experience which will inform their perspective of life and love as they revisit these characters.

To me the movies are about the magic of wonder and how it's important to appreciate the life that is rather than an ideal that's never been. You caution from extrapolating an existence based on "One Fine Day" whilst hoping life could be just that. This was the closing stanza of my first poem in Venezia.

A poem in two parts. ''Travel = Movement/Time'' by Loz in Transit
...
To live well one should enjoy the wonder of each moment.
For like a bubble, trying to contain it would be the surest way to lose it.
Over time, our moments become memories.
And longer still our memories turn into madness.

VIDEO: 'Before Midnight' (2013) Official Trailer

I've avoided the trailer and any spoilers which should be no surprise.
'Before Midnight', the beloved trilogy finale will be screening at the State Theatre, 9:30pm June 8 as part of the Sydney Film Festival Program.

Find other posts that reference 'Before Sunrise'
- 'Loz in Transit' on the radio: Talking 'Waking Life' and existentialism
- Trigger: A Memento year - The first 100 days
- Home Movies: 'Before Sunrise' - "I've never been anywhere" quote

Maiden 'Loz in Transit' Wallpaper

This will be the first of many 'Loz in Transit' Wallpapers.
Please tweet and Tumblr to show your appreciation.

The photo is from my time in Lisboa, Portugal.
The line is from a poem I wrote on a Sampler post.

Limerence: Snowboarding, Skating, Surfing, Christmas and Love

"It's Christmas time in the city" - One of the things I've enjoyed in Europe that we don't have in sunny Sydney are outdoor ice rinks. Whilst its fun watching amateurs like myself fumble around, I am truly mesmerized by skilled skaters gliding gracefully. Weaving artfully through the chaos, lost in a world of their own making. For me it's poetry in motion.

I've watched ice skating in Europe at the Winter Wonderland in London and will be spending my December amongst the Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas Markets) of Germany.

After being transfixed by a contended skater in Köln, I was reminded of this sentiment by David Brooks':

TED Talk Transcript - David Brooks: The Social Animal (18m 44s)
... And then the final thing I'll mention is something you might call limerence. And this is not an ability; it's a drive and a motivation. The conscious mind hungers for success and prestige. The unconscious mind hungers for those moments of transcendence, when the skull line disappears and we are lost in a challenge or a task -- when a craftsman feels lost in his craft, when a naturalist feels at one with nature, when a believer feels at one with God's love. That is what the unconscious mind hungers for. And many of us feel it in love when lovers feel fused.

The last few days I've been living and ego-tripping with athletes studying at the SpoHo in Köln, the most esteemed Sports College in Germany. The sportsmen are trained in all sports and disciplines but each has their preferred expertise.

I've spent the last few evenings watching inspiring videos with German snowboarders and surfers. There is nothing more uplifting than watching talented masters doing what they love and performing to their peak. I can think of only two things better:
1) Watching it in the company of people who share the passion
2) Doing it yourself!

Day 312 - Piusstraße, Köln

VIDEO: 'The Art of FLIGHT' trailer (3m 09s)


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Day 313 - NeuMarkt, Köln

VIDEO: Nike 6.0 Leave A Message (Full Movie. 23m 49s)

Update: Things always come in threes. My judo black belt, ultimate-frisbeeing host in Bremen shared this video of bladers ripping it up in Hamburg. So Geil!
As an added bonus, OzHipHop legends the 'Hilltop Hoods' feature on the soundtrack.

VIDEO: 'U3 Baumwall' by Karsten Boysen

More posts featuring David Brooks

- The "Haimish Line": Pixar and TroubleMaker Studios

- "Limerence": Snowboarding, Skating, Surfing, Christmas and Love

- The 'Social Animal' - Change your behaviour and you change your mind

Trigger: Day 244 - 8 months in review

Its Day 244, roughly two/thirds of the year on the road.
To commemorate this milestone I'd like to share snapshots of a memorable 8 months.
Note: For best effect, click on the links for expanded stories

Day 30 - Venice, Italy
The only time I've worked in the past 8 months was in Venice during Carnevale. It was organised via crafty networking at the hostel I stayed at as a traveler, I returned 2 weeks later working for someone I hadn't intended to. My time here was more educational than social. I learnt about enterprise, hard labour and the goings-on behind hostels. The "Venezia: Vice City" souvenir shirts began to make sense the longer I hung around and met people who lived in this iconic tourist destination.

The city was an inspiration. I took no photos but wrote many poems trying to contain the frustration, fortunes and dreams the city evoked.

Each day in Venice followed a familiar template - hard renovation work by day then hitting the town at night, usually solo. Today I cleaned the attic then met some American travelers at the only night club in town 'Piccolo Mondo'.

Day 60 - Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona was the first city that compelled me to overstay. I would find excuses to hang around, skipping town on the weekends allowing me to return with a renewed energy.

On this day I met with a friend of a friend of a friend. On my last night in Venice, I attended a dinner party hosted by an enterprising Mexi-Can I befriended. The person I was meeting with enjoyed a similar dinner experience on Guidecca Island and it was suggested we get in touch. We had Tapas and Cervesa by her hip neighborhood in Gracia, then solo for live music at 'De Dues' and 'HelioGabal'. Earlier that afternoon I read a captivating book on life lent to me by an American Artist.

Day 90 - Granada, Spain

The overlook at Puerta Monaita

Half of my time in Spain was spent in Andalucia, with a base in Sevilla through family connections I also visited Córdoba, Malaga and Granada. My travels and interest in the arts has invariably led me to several hippies, vagabonds and free-spirits. Of the places I've been to, Granada has best typified this lifestyle.

On this day, with the help of a Vietnamese/German we found entry to a nice lookout from Puerta Monaita overlooking Granada. It was cool finding this spot but more lasting was spending a day with this bohemian who had been "traveling" the last 7 years, learning languages and living around Europe. It was interesting, picking his brain on the pitfalls, joys and freedoms of the drifter way of life.

Day 120 - Coimbra, Portugal

Coimbra Nights

This day was a nexus marking the abrupt end of an unforgettable roadtrip and the triumphant return to Lisboa.

The day previous felt like the Twilight Zone. We were on no sleep and had spent the morning filing a police report after goods were stolen from the front seat of our vehicle (colleagues lost camera lenses and a GPS navigator, I lost my passport and External HDD). We threatened to make a repeat visit to file a Missing Person's report after our running mate was unresponsive and hours late from our agreed rendezvous time.

Coimbra was a student city, the fact it was populated largely by young Lindas initially charmed me. On this day it took an eerie 'Children of the Corn' vibe. I started to believe there was a force exterminating the Adults of the town, suspicious of the constant police sirens. When a motorbike raced past with a blowup doll 69-ing the rider, I completely lost my sh!t.

The following night I was on a bus, returning to my home in Lisboa. Without missing a beat we partied at Bairro Alto for Chilejobs and shot-thieving.

Day 150 - Porto, Portugal
My time in Porto is best summed up by the word 'Comfort', in the best possible sense. I stayed in one place for a month, blanketed by the warmth of 'Familia Feliz' and flanked by 6 Brazilian brothers. We always had guests, countless 20man dinners and had a varied itinerary. As I joined the group for the final month of their Erasmus experience, it was also an emotionally charged time.

Like most of my milestone days, it was quite low-key. I did a night crossing of Porto's iconic bridge for the first time with some German Couchsurfers we were hosting.

Day 180 - Rotterdam, Netherlands
I spent my European Summer in the Netherlands, right in the heart of Festival Season. My impromptu itinerary for the month was governed by the many events taking place around Holland. It was here that I tried the much-raved about CouchSurfing for the first time as some of the Festival cities didn't have hostel accommodation.

On this day I was in Rotterdam, voted as '2010's Best Festival city in the world'. I participated in that evening's 'Wednesday Night Skate' with some Aussie roommates. It was a shambolic performance, thankfully we were all equally hopeless and we fell, got lost and soaked in the night together. The best part is always the afterparty anyway.

Day 210 - Brighton, England

Photo via Todd Geasland

Traveling alone at length, you meet many people. Most times you'll share just the one day - Running mates Du jour.

On my journey I've only really had two long-term running mates, an American in Holland and the incomparable TG in Portugal. I first ran with Todd, ego-tripping from Lisboa, roadside cooking (me: eating) and urban camping. This was the first time I'd reconnected with a fellow running mate and the sequel was just as fun. It's good to hang with someone you have a shared history with, touch base and share adventures had in the interim.

We hit the English countryside in a Triumph, decked in suits and Flat caps. On this night we had a memorable time hanging with street performers, getting tips on the best 'skipping' spots and learning a few umbrella tricks. We closed the night longboarding and some 2 on 2 basketball with three charming lesbians.

Day 240 - Vilnius, Lithuania
One of the standard questions I ask when I've just met people is "How do you guys know each other?". I've found that most times, people really don't know how they're relationships began. I find the most interesting connections are created through an elaborate but ultimately trivial chain of events.

The friendships I formed in Lithuania were achieved this way. Though I stayed in hostels for the most part, the Lithuanian people were so hospitable I had no trouble collecting an amazing set of friends in the cities I visited. I spent this memorable night watching an orchestra, visiting the contemporary Art gallery, watching a Goat burning and daungas žibintas (sky lanterns) being floated.

Other milestone days of a Memento year:
- Day 200
- Day 150
- Day 100

Poetry in motion: 'Lost in...'

I seem to only write poems when I lose stuff. So fittingly...

'Lost in...' by LozInTransit
I've lost some stuff but I haven't lost my shit.
Once I lose my cool then I've I've really lost it
When I lost my camera, I was told the camera was in my mind
But what happens when I lose my mind?
I've replaced it since and still carry it with me,
but what's troubling is that I'm losing focus.

Misadventures can be overcome,
In losing money, you gain creativity
In losing a passport, you gain direction
In losing things, you gain freedom
In losing ID, you gain your identity

Time, the one thing in life always in deficit
is strangely abundant when its well spent.
For each instant lost, experience is forever gained.
We mustn't lose sight of that.

The one thing I've found
is I'm happiest when lost in the moment.
Lost in transit.

Mixtape: 'Loz in Translation' Sampler (Spain)

All the different genres in one post, a sampler if you will.

1. Poetry in Motion
2. Road Movies
3. Road Music
4. Road Reading
5. A question answered with a quote
6. Spotted in:
7. On top of:

1. Poetry in motion

Thought for Food
Traveling is eating
Thinking is chewing
Conversing is digesting
Blogging is shitting

- by Loz in Transit (2011)
Update 2012: Download poem in Wallpaper form here

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2. Road Movies

The unfortunate reality of being on the road - Friendships lead to loneliness, thinking leads to cleverness.

Tyler Durden and the Narrator meet in 'Fight Club'

Fight Club (1999)
Narrator: Everywhere I travel, tiny life. Single-serving sugar, single-serving cream, single pat of butter. The microwave Cordon Bleu hobby kit. Shampoo-conditioner combos, sample-packaged mouthwash, tiny bars of soap. The people I meet on each flight? They're single-serving friends.

later...

Narrator: Tyler, you are by far the most interesting single-serving friend I've ever met... see I have this thing: everything on a plane is single-serving...
Tyler Durden: Oh I get it, it's very clever
Narrator: Thank you
Durden: How's that working out for you?
Narrator: What?
Durden: Being clever
Narrator: Great
Durden: Keep it up then... Right up

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3. Road Music
Live the language - Barcelona

Great song. Great vid. Some will say it loses points because they actually speak Castellano in Barcelona and as a fiercely proud people that might not fly.
Music by 'Magnus The Magnus'

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4. Road Reading

Found in the Alhambra Libreria in Granada, Spain

The Magic of M.C. Escher

The Magic of M. C. Escher

"Which reality is actually more powerful; that of the present, instantly absorbed by the senses and discernable, or the memory of what we experienced previously? Is the present truly more real than the past?"

- MC Escher

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5. A question answered with a quote

Questions shouldn't be limited

I'm slangless

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6. Spotted in: Valencia, Spain
Abril 5, 2011. 6pm

A huge Cartman doll floating tranquilo in a stream near the 'Ciudad de las Artes y de las Ciencias'

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7. On Top of: Jardín del Turia - Its no picnic on hanging rock

The Jardín del Turia in Valencia was formerly a river but has since been turned into a long, sunken park. In it you will find fountains, picnic areas and football fields but best of all the wall that lines the park doubles as a 15ft free climbing obstacle. I made this discovery when I saw kids using an archway and the various holes and curves of the stonewall as footholds. I wish someone had been with me when I climbed it.

1) To take pictures of the wall and the climb

2) To witness my miraculous recovery after losing my footing midway

3) A buddy system had I fallen

As it was, only 2 people watched my climb. Both were on the footpath at the peak. The first, a black gentleman who peered over the edge to see how high I was. The second, an old man who reversed course as he wanted no part of my misadventure. By this point I'd been hanging on for dear life for several minutes, regathering my strength for the final hurdle.

I had submitted an entry in Atlas Obscura on this interesting find. The post has since been edited, with the "climbing" portions removed.

- Mixtape: 'Loz in Translation' Sampler (Spain)
- Mixtape: 'Loz in Translation' Sampler II (Turkey)

My muse: Sphinx of the 'Mystery Men'

Mystery Men - Furious at Sphinx's sayings


My poetic mentor.
Find more Sphinx quotes here - The Sphinx quotes

Mr FURIOUS: Okay, am I the only one who finds these sayings just a little bit Formulaic? "If you want to push something down, you have to pull it up. If you want to go left, you have to go right." It's...
The SPHINX: Your temper is very quick, my friend. But until you learn to master your rage...
Mr FURIOUS: ...your rage will become your master? That's what you were going to say. Right? Right?
The SPHINX: Not necessarily.

Poetry in Motion: The art of creating

A commentary of.

Poetry in Motion: A Fisherman's luck

A Fisherman's luck
Awoken by birds he sits up.
There's still time.
He grabs what he needs and races to the water's edge.
He doesn't carry much,
all he plans to catch is a glimpse.
He bristles past the early risers,
past men on boats beginning their morning routine.
He reaches the clearing and waits,
he knows its a creature of habit.
He squints hoping to see the giant berthing in the horizon.
He knows in this season at this time, his chances are slim.
He waits.
He walks around hoping to find it from another vantage.
Nothing.

Coming towards him,
Something catches his eye
He can hardly believe it.
Though not unheard of,
this breed rarely arrives in these waters.
But the weather has been known to invite it.
He puts his hand out to feel the fish dart around his finger tips.
He casts his net,
hoping to see a bounty upon his return.
The whale wouldn't surface at all that day.
But as he retired back into slumber,
he couldn't help but smile at his good fortune.

3 Marzo, 2011
It snowed today in Venice. Just enough to look cool from a window, but not enough to look cool on the ground. It snowed twice in Venice last year.

Poetry in Motion: Waiting alone

Waiting Alone
Please wait a moment.
What are you waiting for?
Wait till you get a load of this. Just wait here.
Wait a sec. Wait a God-damn-minute!
You just wait. Wait Wait... Don't tell me!
Wait for it. Waaaaaaiit for it.

Waiter!

Can you wait for me?
Waiting...

I caaan't wait!

What is it about waiting that sucks? Part of the odd jobs I've been tasked with in Venezia is couriering guests from one part of town to another. A large part of it is waiting for people who've specified a vague and possibly arbitrary arrival time.

Today I waited for 5 hours. They never showed up. Not complaining, in fact on paper it reads well.
1) Scenic waiting area at the Scalzi Bridge near the main station
2) Sabato during Carnevale means New Years Eve level traffic. Lots of people to watch
3) The parade of outrageous costumes from Alice in Wonderland to Mario and Luigi. Its essentially 2 weeks of Halloween and EVERYONE is in the spirit
4) The sea of humanity meant it would have been a slow crawl to spend the day walking around the city
5) The waiting meant I got to avoid hard labour for the day
6) Its usually couriering packs of girls
7) Twas a beautiful day in a beautiful city

Despite all that, there is something about waiting that is unbearable. I can't quite put a finger on it. It has something to do with only moving in the one axis - time. Also when you're waiting, its usually for a relief of some sort. Most times in the form of company.

Funnily enough, the people I watched weren't do anything radically different to what I was doing. Albeit they were lost in conversation and lost in a foreign city. For most its simply walking around, people watching. In the case of those spectacularly dressed, being watched. Point A and point B are negligible, just being on a journey counts for a lot.

I make sure I get out of the house every night. In Venezia its usually been alone, its essentially "walkin around waitin for shit to pop". In basketball terms, its the equivalent of running around trying to get good position. Whether you receive an assist, get an open look or score that's another matter. Ultimately for best results you want to be able to create your own shot.

Maybe this why I don't like waiting...

The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready.
Henry David Thoreau

As you get older, you'd think there'd be an urgency as you have less time you can afford to spend waiting. But something tells me that with maturity comes peace. You just learn to cherish time and are more assured on what time is worth being spent on. With that said, I purposely omitted one common 'wait' phrase that I hope one day truly resonates with me - "some things in life are just worth waiting for".

A poem in two: 'The long way' and 'The short way'

You repeat, hone and get fed great ideas through conversations. That's where a lot of these poems were born from. Having time to chill in Venezia has allowed me to pour these out rapidly.
Enjoy!

The short way
Cities are cities. Museums are museums.
When static, we're complacent.
In motion, we're fatigued.
Experiences seem rehearsed.
Paved by literature, dulled by reproduction.
Though wonder is lost
in wandering it can be found.
For when we are lost,
we have something to find.
And we become explorers,
revealing beauty in discovery

The long way
One gallery. A hundred masterpieces.
One city. A thousand years.
One mind. A million thoughts.
Collected but never fully contained.

To discover the wonder,
we must wander in discovery.
Explorers using each other as maps,
guiding us to our exits.

Perhaps continuing deeper,
to stay and amaze.
Charting a path with one another
until we are found

A poem in two: 'Other people's photos' and 'A Shared Moment'

These two part poems seem to come easy. The themes tend to flow but there's a need to shift the metaphors. Probably a sign of a hack?

The poem 'Other People's Photos' should lead into said selection that I hope capture my experience. It will be a work in progress ad infinitum. If you'll pardon my stubbornness, its a shame some of the best moments are left uncaptured. The best times are often social, getting lost walking and talking, connecting with people. Usually they're times you don't want interrupted. Like a pleasant dream.

Other times, moments are spontaneous and only God's eye can capture it in its full glory.
Picture this ----> A hard day's work dismantling furniture and moving shit on a boat to be couriered from one part of Venice to another. Me and my amigo Roberto, chilling on a sofa atop a barge rolling down the canals of Venezia towards San Marco.

Other Peoples Photos
Why do we take photos?
To remind us what we've done,
or to convince others.
Perhaps ourselves?
Were moments disrupted,
or were they created once captured?
When witness to great sights,
why claim it with evidence of our presence?

The focus has changed.
It was never the moment.
It was you.
Had you not been there. It wouldn't exist.
In photos, we often dwell on how we look.
Where we fit in the frame.
If only the moment matters
perhaps other people's photos will suffice.
Maybe the comfort...
is knowing the moment was shared.





A shared moment
We inhabit the same space,
and walk down the same path.
But how much of it is really shared?
The gulf exists in our minds
But the bridge is in our hearts.

Our life thus far color our moments
In flight we can enjoy it with peace,
not weighed down by the gravity of reality.
We dread the re-entry,
the hostile atmosphere of earth.
Like a rocket, we will not return whole.

It doesn't get any easier,
but we plot future missions.
The goal hangs above us.
A light in the darkness
we may never reach again.
Comforted by the moon rock
that at least shows it was possible

More poems and B-Sides by LozInTransit

Labour and stillness
x
Beautiful city
-
Internet
=
Hack poetry.

Writing a lot of poems. Some of them are definitely going to be B-Sides. I won't tell you which. You can decide amongst yourselves.

Traveling
Its not where you've been, its where you're going
Its not where you're going, its where you are
Its not where you are, its what you see
Its not what you see, its what you do
Its not what you do, its who you're with
Its not who you're with, its who you are
Its not who you are, its where you're at

Wealth
Its not how much you've acted, its how much you've done
Its not how much you've done, its how many people benefit
Its not how many people benefit, its how people benefit
Its not how people benefit, its who benefits
Its not who benefits, how did you benefit
Its not how you benefit, its how much you earn
Its not how much you earn, its how much you own
Its not how much you own, Its how much you're loved
Its not how much you're loved, its what you love
Its not what you love, its who you love
Its not who you love, its how much love you give
its not how much love you give, its that you have love in your heart

A poem in two parts. ''Travel = Movement/Time'' by LozInTransit

'Travel = Movement/Time'

Travel
Traveling is living the dream,
and like a dream every moment is a bubble.
Each with its own fragile beauty,
A light air that can vanish in an instant.

A new day offers a new home. New moments with new friends.
But a moment has no constant measure.
Minutes with good company could linger more than months in a great country.
No equation of words and numbers can explain it.

To live well one should enjoy the wonder of each moment.
For like a bubble, trying to contain it would be the surest way to lose it.
Over time, our moments become memories.
And longer still our memories turn into madness.

Movement over Time
Living in our dreams would be a beautiful insanity.
Its a rapid movement of oneself without having gone anywhere at all.
We take comfort in the pillows we've laid.
But they can suffocate us if the hands of time get a hold of them.
Once we allow it, the strike of every minute can be cause for great alarm.
Then we might stir. Then we might moan.
Or perhaps we awaken and begin to move once more.

Allora, I am in Venezia now.
You do a lot of thinking traveling alone. Most of that has been digested through conversation with others. Its good to know I can still get pregnant with ideas considering its been a while since I left design but of course that doesn't mean I haven't been fucking with my head.

Some of the inspiration for writing this probably goes to a Punk Rock scribe (dissentinpenmanship.com) from B-More. We hung out in Firenze and Roma. His faith in the power of writing made me believe in it too. But the credit is shared to all the wonderful locals and travelers I've met and the loved ones at home who I carry with me.

Though I've only been gone for a month. I feel like I've been traveling for years. You can travel with your mind or your feet. Both are rewarding, but traveling with your feet gets noticed more so you feel cooler.

The last few weeks of connections and activity have been fun. Ditto for the 2010 Preseason. Here in Venezia, making my first return visit after having 2 brief, enjoyable nights I will be staying put for a little while. These poems were created on a day where I did mostly nothing, waiting/working.

The first time in these months of 'travel' where I was content to do nothing. No pressure to maximize the day. Breathing easy, Living simply which ironically gave it even more value.

Ciao Ciao