The Kids are Alright: Coolspotting in Berlin

My final day in Berlin I ego-tripped following a trio of Aussie Coffee enthusiasts as they sampled specialty Coffee Shops in Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin. It was a fascinating learning experience.

The girls described the rituals they undergo for work to preserve a neutral pallette for gauging their coffee creations. They mentioned having a coworker who was allergic to everything, interestingly her allergies made her sensitive to sensations allowing her to enjoy food by merely smelling it.

I can identify, I have a similar ability to appreciate things on a cerebral level. For instance, I love basketball kicks but rather than take up space and spending money to own them I'm content simply collecting sneaker JPEGs.

On my final day in Berlin I spent the day browsing, hovering and missing out on things but please don't consider it a failure. For me the process of exploring a city whether things pan out or not is the fun in and of itself. Anything else is a bonus.

Computerspiele Museum

Hatch Sticker Museum

Modern Museums
I find it difficult to fully appreciate experiences when they're passive. It's why I enjoy live music over nightclubs and despite being comfortable solo only go to museums when accompanied. The ceremony of discussion plays a big part for me enjoying the museum experience.

I stopped by the 'Computerspiele' Museum and was content browsing through the Video Game exhibition's gift shop. The 'Hatch Sticker' Museum had shut up shop for the Christmas Holidays though I managed to leave some propaganda for their neighbors' VICE Magazine.

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Miranda July in February unveiling 'The Future'

Eating like the stars
I invited people via CouchSurfing to join me as I Ego-Tripped as indie darling Miranda July. I walked around baffled wishing I'd written down the address to the restaurant she mentioned on her blog. When I finally managed to check online my suspicions were confirmed. The Mexican eatery had been replaced by an Italian joint, cheekily its official website and GoogleMaps street view persisted with the outdated reality

'Miranda July' blog (Sept 28, 2011)
Berliners! Remember the Mexican restaurant in Kreuzberg I mentioned? So many friends asked me for the name of the place that I re-found it, by finding my old apartment on Google maps and then "walking" there using street view. I felt very modern. To have the best appreciation for this restaurant you might have to be an American woman who has spent the entire day working with German men in a windowless room...

Streetwear

I like looking for Streetwear and comic shops in each city I visit. It gives me my bearings of a place, these stores are usually situated in the cool districts of town where you are likely to find the artistic set hanging at swanky cafes. I would bet Berlin has more streetwear stores per capita than the other major Capitals of cool, New York and Tokyo. I spent the day windowshopping around Torstraße having visited other cool districts Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg the days previous.

The Kids are Alright

- Coolspotting in Frankfurt and Barcelona
- Coolspotting: Subculture in the South of Spain
- Coolspotting in Netherlands
- Coolspotting in Netherlands Pt II
- Coolspotting: Nerding out in England - Comics, CosPlay, Video Games and Wrestling
- Coolspotting in Berlin
- Coolspotting in Istanbul
- Coolspotting in Sydney
- Coolspotting in Melbourne

Trigger: Day 244 - 8 months in review

Its Day 244, roughly two/thirds of the year on the road.
To commemorate this milestone I'd like to share snapshots of a memorable 8 months.
Note: For best effect, click on the links for expanded stories

Day 30 - Venice, Italy
The only time I've worked in the past 8 months was in Venice during Carnevale. It was organised via crafty networking at the hostel I stayed at as a traveler, I returned 2 weeks later working for someone I hadn't intended to. My time here was more educational than social. I learnt about enterprise, hard labour and the goings-on behind hostels. The "Venezia: Vice City" souvenir shirts began to make sense the longer I hung around and met people who lived in this iconic tourist destination.

The city was an inspiration. I took no photos but wrote many poems trying to contain the frustration, fortunes and dreams the city evoked.

Each day in Venice followed a familiar template - hard renovation work by day then hitting the town at night, usually solo. Today I cleaned the attic then met some American travelers at the only night club in town 'Piccolo Mondo'.

Day 60 - Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona was the first city that compelled me to overstay. I would find excuses to hang around, skipping town on the weekends allowing me to return with a renewed energy.

On this day I met with a friend of a friend of a friend. On my last night in Venice, I attended a dinner party hosted by an enterprising Mexi-Can I befriended. The person I was meeting with enjoyed a similar dinner experience on Guidecca Island and it was suggested we get in touch. We had Tapas and Cervesa by her hip neighborhood in Gracia, then solo for live music at 'De Dues' and 'HelioGabal'. Earlier that afternoon I read a captivating book on life lent to me by an American Artist.

Day 90 - Granada, Spain

The overlook at Puerta Monaita

Half of my time in Spain was spent in Andalucia, with a base in Sevilla through family connections I also visited Córdoba, Malaga and Granada. My travels and interest in the arts has invariably led me to several hippies, vagabonds and free-spirits. Of the places I've been to, Granada has best typified this lifestyle.

On this day, with the help of a Vietnamese/German we found entry to a nice lookout from Puerta Monaita overlooking Granada. It was cool finding this spot but more lasting was spending a day with this bohemian who had been "traveling" the last 7 years, learning languages and living around Europe. It was interesting, picking his brain on the pitfalls, joys and freedoms of the drifter way of life.

Day 120 - Coimbra, Portugal

Coimbra Nights

This day was a nexus marking the abrupt end of an unforgettable roadtrip and the triumphant return to Lisboa.

The day previous felt like the Twilight Zone. We were on no sleep and had spent the morning filing a police report after goods were stolen from the front seat of our vehicle (colleagues lost camera lenses and a GPS navigator, I lost my passport and External HDD). We threatened to make a repeat visit to file a Missing Person's report after our running mate was unresponsive and hours late from our agreed rendezvous time.

Coimbra was a student city, the fact it was populated largely by young Lindas initially charmed me. On this day it took an eerie 'Children of the Corn' vibe. I started to believe there was a force exterminating the Adults of the town, suspicious of the constant police sirens. When a motorbike raced past with a blowup doll 69-ing the rider, I completely lost my sh!t.

The following night I was on a bus, returning to my home in Lisboa. Without missing a beat we partied at Bairro Alto for Chilejobs and shot-thieving.

Day 150 - Porto, Portugal
My time in Porto is best summed up by the word 'Comfort', in the best possible sense. I stayed in one place for a month, blanketed by the warmth of 'Familia Feliz' and flanked by 6 Brazilian brothers. We always had guests, countless 20man dinners and had a varied itinerary. As I joined the group for the final month of their Erasmus experience, it was also an emotionally charged time.

Like most of my milestone days, it was quite low-key. I did a night crossing of Porto's iconic bridge for the first time with some German Couchsurfers we were hosting.

Day 180 - Rotterdam, Netherlands
I spent my European Summer in the Netherlands, right in the heart of Festival Season. My impromptu itinerary for the month was governed by the many events taking place around Holland. It was here that I tried the much-raved about CouchSurfing for the first time as some of the Festival cities didn't have hostel accommodation.

On this day I was in Rotterdam, voted as '2010's Best Festival city in the world'. I participated in that evening's 'Wednesday Night Skate' with some Aussie roommates. It was a shambolic performance, thankfully we were all equally hopeless and we fell, got lost and soaked in the night together. The best part is always the afterparty anyway.

Day 210 - Brighton, England

Photo via Todd Geasland

Traveling alone at length, you meet many people. Most times you'll share just the one day - Running mates Du jour.

On my journey I've only really had two long-term running mates, an American in Holland and the incomparable TG in Portugal. I first ran with Todd, ego-tripping from Lisboa, roadside cooking (me: eating) and urban camping. This was the first time I'd reconnected with a fellow running mate and the sequel was just as fun. It's good to hang with someone you have a shared history with, touch base and share adventures had in the interim.

We hit the English countryside in a Triumph, decked in suits and Flat caps. On this night we had a memorable time hanging with street performers, getting tips on the best 'skipping' spots and learning a few umbrella tricks. We closed the night longboarding and some 2 on 2 basketball with three charming lesbians.

Day 240 - Vilnius, Lithuania
One of the standard questions I ask when I've just met people is "How do you guys know each other?". I've found that most times, people really don't know how they're relationships began. I find the most interesting connections are created through an elaborate but ultimately trivial chain of events.

The friendships I formed in Lithuania were achieved this way. Though I stayed in hostels for the most part, the Lithuanian people were so hospitable I had no trouble collecting an amazing set of friends in the cities I visited. I spent this memorable night watching an orchestra, visiting the contemporary Art gallery, watching a Goat burning and daungas žibintas (sky lanterns) being floated.

Other milestone days of a Memento year:
- Day 200
- Day 150
- Day 100

Trigger: Crazy Times in Holland, Day 185 - Day 195

A memorable time was had with good friends made in Holland. This is an incomplete audit of the improbable adventures shared around a badass Red Campervan. If you're looking at the photos and wondering about the garish timestamp declaring a lost time, I need only refer you to our Dutch theme song. Press play and enjoy!

Soundtrack for the "Crazy Days"
'Loca People (What the f**k)' by Sak Noel

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L to R: American. German. German, Dutch. German

(From Right to Left)

a) German F
Owner of the badass red Campervan. I met him playing guitar by the campfire at the Scheveningen Surf Village, a beach town near Den Haag. He is a strong drinker but weak smoker. Great parkour skills, easily bounding onto a 1.5 metre shop roof. His impressive feat undone by drunkenly jumping off it, No forward roll, zero technique. Ridonc! He rocked a limp and crutches from then on.

b) Dutch A
This kindly person approached us as we ate our grocery store breakfast by the side of the road, he was after a light. A brief chat revealed he had just bought and moved into his first apartment that day. Moments later we were upstairs, unloading the van and a key was graciously handed to us. He said that it was cool for us to stay at his place indefinitely. The Germans could only stay that night, the American stayed a total of 5. I moved in 2 days later. Freakin' cool guy, with great friends too!

c) German A

Right hand man of the Campervan owner. A hilarious guy with an expressive character. We shared 2 booze and smoke-filled nights in Scheveningen, entertained by great Dutch musos (Hanneke and Nino) by the campervan. I was saved from having to cycle back to Den Haag in the all too familiar Dutch rain, scoring a lift back to Rotterdam then camping in Amsterdam. But that was only the start of our adventures...

d) Turkish/German M

Met her the first time I was in Amsterdam, almost a month previous. We had enjoyed a memorable time with our mutual Mexican roommate and her charming dutch admirer. When I texted that I was back in town with a campervan, she proceeded to jump out the bus halfway to taking her home. With only €50 to her name and a foolhardy belief everything would work out, she joined our merry band. This was to be her last hurrah after a month of traveling.

It was a lost night for her - bumping into a Dutchman at the bus stop she had met in her Lisbon hostel weeks previous. Negotiating through gay traffic through the lanes of Amsterdam with her overwhelming backpack, using her feminine wiles to find a place to stay whilst dealing with other idiots. She eventually crashed with my NY apartment swappers. We talked about how it was quite the effort for essentially half a night in Amsterdam, albeit during the famous Canal Parade weekend. We wondered if and how we could extend the experience. Then in walked our Dutch saviour...

e) American M
My German friends had their campervan parked in front of my Rotterdam hostel. The weather was fine so we decided to go to the beach by Haarlem, eventually heading into Amsterdam. I promptly canceled the night's booking and invited anyone present in the hostel lobby "I have some cool Germans outside with a van, who wants to come?".

Though hesitant at first but open to suggestion (he had been randomly browsing google maps for his next destination), this American was my running mate for the last 10 days in Holland. A Dr Ruth with a knack for expletive-filled freestyles and a love for kapsalon (with all the flatulence that comes with it). We introduced ourselves between the walk from the hostel lobby and the van in front. The rest, as they say is history.

Update: I reconnected with the Hamburg kids over Christmas. They were at the opening of my Gallery Exhibition in my bedroom - A Memento Year

Trigger: Festival hopping in Holland (July, August 2011)

Rollerskating [terribly] and moving to the beat of the drum in Rotterdam. Riding the Hammer and other gay adventures in Tilburg. Eating Poffertjes and sharing good times with leuke meisjes in Utrecht. Watching bands and enjoying an impromptu dance circle commanded by a 12yr old girl in Nijmegen. Drinking Advocaat, dozing off then dancing at night in spectacular Amsterdam. The Festivals of Holland...

DAY 168: De Parade. Utrecht
WEB: deparade.nl
VIDEO: Sfeerreportage De Parade 2011

DAY 175: Vier Daagse Feesten (4 Day Walk Festival). Nijmegen
WEB: vierdaagsefeesten.nl
VIDEO: Vierdaagse Feesten Nijmegen samenvatting vr. 22 juli

DAY 177: Kermis Tilburg. Tilburg
WEB: tilburgsekermis.com
VIDEO: KermisTV - Best Of 2011 - Deel 1

DAY 178: Roze Maandag. Tilburg
WEB: rozemaandag-tilburg.nl
VIDEO: LOTT - Opening Roze Maandag 2011

DAY 180: Wednesday Night Skate. Rotterdam
WEB: wednesdaynightskate.nl
VIDEO: Wednesday Night Skate 2011

DAY 182: Zomer Carnaval. Rotterdam
WEB: zomercarnaval.nl
VIDEO: FunX: Zomercarnaval 2011

DAY 190: Canal Parade. Amsterdam
WEB: canalparade.nl
VIDEO: Amsterdam Gay Pride Canal Parade 2011

DAY 193: Pluk de Nacht. Amsterdam
WEB: plukdenacht.nl
VIDEO: Pluk de Nacht - Dag 1

Day 184 - Half a year in statistics

Its July 31, 2011. Day 184.
Its the first full day after my half year anniversary in Europe. I am commemorating this momentous occassion the only way I know how. Through cold statistics...

• 184 days traveling. 19 days working.
• 33 Hostels. 22 cities. 5 Countries
• 25 hrs plane. 25 hrs train
• 14 hrs by Mitzfarhgelingheit. 42 hrs by bus. 6 days on the road
• 1 pubcrawl. 183 days since last Pubcrawl
• 79 nights unpaid. 8 nights couchsurfing. 9 nights homeless
• 13 festivals. 3 museums
• 3 sporting events. 3 comedy gigs. 2 punk rock shows. 0 Hiphop
• €1.30 on Toilets. €87 on Clothes
• 1 night sleeping before 1pm
  
• 30 days in Porto (longest in one city). 6 Safado brothers
• 3 items broken. 7 won. 12 stolen

Loz in Transit Hostels - Accommodation mapped out

• Germany: Day 1 - 17 (17)
• Italy: Day 18 - 46 (28)
• Spain: Day 47 - 94 (47)
• Portugal: Day 95 - 158 (63)
• Netherlands: Day 159 - ?

Monthly spending - "How we out in Europe, spending Euros"

1. 1488.35 (376.60 / 448.30 / 371.65 / 291.80)
2. 556.20 (65.35 / 23.50 / 253.35 / 214)
3. 709.50 (182.10 / 191.50 / 180.90 / 155)
4. 772.75 (207.30 / 219.15 / 193.90 / 152.40)
5. 620.20 (142.85 / 323.80 / 82.35 / 71.20)
6. 724.85 (46.55 / 71 / 354.35 / 252.95)
7. - (143.95, 197.60, 149.85)
   

Trigger: "One hell of a night" Rotterdam, Netherlands (Juli 26, 2011)

"How very nice and normal" - Rockwell Clothing

After a trip of a night jaunting around Rotterdam, we questioned whether this was an atypical evening. My running mates Du jour insisted that it was not standard and we were definitely in the company of some eccentric people.

Ken, a toothless Dutch-Kenyan assured us it was perfectly normal and asked, "Does it bother you? If it doesn't bother you then its probably normal". My friend wasn't fazed but wasn't convinced by the equation. Ken then pointed at the unattractive but enigmatic 50yr old with greased-back hair, donning a leather jacket and a Calvin and Hobbes "I'm the Best!" T-Shirt. "Tell me..." he began, "What do you think is normal for him?"

I realised the following morning, the distinction between finding something normal and it being natural.

It was one hell of a night! Interestingly it was exactly 11 months after a similarly noteworthy day in Sydney. As a first, I present a choice of two background theme songs to represent the two competing tones.

Soundtrack for the "Normal"
'Soundtrack 2 My Life' by KiD CuDi


Soundtrack for the "Natural"
'What a great night' by Hilltop Hoods
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Find the other trigger days here:

- Trigger "Farewell in Unison" Sydney, Australia (June 22, 2013)
- Trigger: "One hell of a night" Rotterdam, Netherlands (Juli 26, 2011)
- Trigger: "A moment in time" Panevėžys, Lithuania (2011 m. Rugsėjo 7)

- Hair, There and Everywhere: Haircut days in Europe
- Trigger: Day 114 - An NBA day in Portugal
- Trigger: Day 244 - 8 months in review
- Find other Memento Triggers here

Trigger: Ego Tripping in Portugal - Sintra, Obidos, Ericeria, Coimbra

Soundtrack for the Portugese road, North from Lisboa
- 'Road Trippin' by the Red Hot Chilli Peppers

Ego trippin'

with two brand new allies

Fully loaded

we got snacks

and supplies

It's time to leave this town

It's time to steal away

Let's go get lost

Anywhere from the U.S.A.

Let's go get lost

Let's go get lost

Blue you sit so pretty

West of the one

Sparkle light with yellow icing

Just a mirror for the sun

Just a mirror for the sun

Just a mirror for the sun

These Smiling eyes are just a mirror for

So much has come before

those battles lost and won

This life is shining more forever in the sun

Now let us check our heads

And let us check the surf

Staying high and dry's

More trouble than it's worth

In the sun

Just a mirror for the sun

Just a mirror for the sun

These Smiling eyes are just a mirror for

In Coimbra we took some time to linger on

We three hunky dories

got our snakefinger on

Now let us drink the stars

It's time to steal away

Let's go get lost

Right here from the U.S.A

Road tripping north with Todd (USA) and Kah (NZ) beginning at Lisboa. We hit Sintra, Obidos, Ericeira, Peniche, Mafra, Leiria and Coimbra. Unfortunately some valuables were stolen from our van which means a return to Lisboa to vist the Australian Embassy. 'O mundo gira'.

Find the sequel here - Trigger: Egotripping II - England, on the road again
A day in the life of - Trigger: Day 114 - An NBA day in Portugal

- What is an Ego-Trip?
- Ego Tripping with American TG* in Portugal
- Ego Tripping with American TG* II in England
- Ego tripping with Slovakian DK* in Estonia
- Sintra, Portugal: "O mundo gira" - The second chances we get in life and travel
- Trigger: Day 114 - An NBA day in Portugal